Top 10 reasons I love Madrid

10) Centrally Located City- I can travel to any part of the Iberian peninsula very easily. Bus tickets are the cheapest (40 euro round trip to most places), and I can get to the coast in all cardinal directions in around 6 hours or less. Train and plane rides are slightly more expensive, but much faster. I’ve taken high speed trains to Toledo and Malaga, each place I’ve also driven. Each time the train ride was slightly under half the time. I even heard of people booking Rynair flights to Portugal for 10 euro round trip.

9) Architecture- I’ve almost become used to the stunning architecture around this city. Every window terrace of every single building has ornate iron rails with artsy swirls and intricate designs. Most buildings have beautiful statues and classical columns that seem to be standard. Fountains, gardens, pedestrian streets, it’s all lovely. I’m done explaining this- the pictures should do the talking.

8) Weather- It’s November. I’ve been here almost two months. By my count- it has rained here once (and it was a hell of a storm that I got caught in). The weather is always the same: High of 75- Low of 50. September was this same range, only warmer. This week has been colder, but it’s about time. Oh- and there’s blue skies everyday. And I mean no clouds.

7) El Metro- I haven’t ever used such a well designed public transportation system. I’ve been told the Metro in Madrid is similar to that of Paris and Washington DC. There are 12 lines that run in all directions underneath the metropolis. Each metro station is a stop for 1-3 train lines. After you enter the underground, you can transfer lines as many times as needed to arrive at your destination. There is no confusion as to which is the correct train to take on a given track (like in Pittsburgh and New York).The metro connects to the airport, the Renfe (high speed trains), suburban trains, and the bus stations. Public transportation is very easy and affordable in this city. I have a monthly pass that gives me all the metro rides I want. It is also interesting to note that the metro is open from 6am-1:30am, which further promotes the extremely late/early nights for partying. Once you choose to stay out past 1:30am, chances are, you’re going the distance until the metro reopens (or you walk/taxi home).

6) Museo del Jamon- In my first two weeks in Madrid I averaged about 1.5 visits to these restaurants each day. Spain is big on pig. Like really big. Museo del Jamon (The Ham Museum) is a chain only in Madrid that covers it’s walls with hanging legs of ham. They take their jamon very seriously. There’s Jamon Serrano, which is way better than anything I’ve had in the United States, but this is just peasant’s ham. The good stuff is Jamon Iberico Bellota. This is the equivalent of Kobe beef. These pigs are only from certain regions of Spain, fed only the finest acorns their whole lives, and after slaughter, the meat is cured for 1-3 years. The finished product melts in your mouth with the most delicious pig flavor imaginable. Wowzers. Believe me though, you pay for the quality. But have no fear, if you aren’t able to pay for the Jamon Iberico Bellota, Museo del Jamon has a 1 euro menu. McDonalds and Wendy’s don’t have shit on the Museo del Jamon dollar menu. Of all the wonderful things on this value menu, I only need combinations of two of them: Croissant Mixtos, and Cervezas. Cerveza: Beer. Big cup of Amstel (not Amstel light- which sucks. I‘m not sure they have Amstel lager in the US). Croissant Mixto: This is my new favorite food: jamon Serrano, manchego cheese, on a homemade buttery croissant made fresh daily. I’ve eaten over 50 of these (seriously, I was counting but got lost in the 40s). I slap a 5 euro note down, get 2 beers and 3 croissant mixtos, and I’m the happiest boy on earth.

5) La Comida- The Food. It’s delicious. Aside from ham- Spain’s food is wonderful. Paella is fantastic- especially with local shellfish. Tapas (little appetizers) make for the best snacks, ranging from fried seafood to plates of cured meats, olives, and cheeses. Spanish wines are extremely numerous, though I’ve stuck mostly to Riojas. I’ve done Sangria at least twice a week, and I’m starting to get picky about where to get the good stuff. Other food favorites: Rabo de Toro (Ox-tail stew)- most tender meat I’ve ever tasted, Confit de Pato (Confit Duck)- best prepared duck- served with baked apples, Local Langoustines, Bacalao (local fish similar to Cod).

4) Night Life- La Madrugada- Ok- Spain kicks ass. Dinner doesn’t start til 8:30 at the earliest, usually closer to 10. People don’t start to go out until at least midnight. Bars stay open much later than in the US. Did I mention the drinking age is 18? I’ve done a good deal of bar exploring. Now about halfway through my trip, I’ve found my favorite bars in the area, and haunt them frequently. Many bars draw in patrons by hiring promoters out on the streets to offer free drinks. I’ve spent a few nights beating the system by taking my free beer or shot, then leaving for the free drink at the next bar. I’ve also been suckered into staying a few times. I have a soft spot in my heart for the 4 euro mojito.

But the discotecas (dance clubs) are where it’s at. Clubs can be small little dance floors in bars, or Faborik- a converted industrial factory with a capacity for 5000, or Teatro Kapital- a 7 story club with 7 dance floors, 7 DJs, 7 kinds of music playing. Clubs open at 11 or midnight, but don’t start to get busy until around 3. People stay out dancing til at least 6 am when the metro opens the next day. If that’s not enough clubbing for you, there’s even clubs that run from 5am to 5pm for the professional partiers. If you get the drunk munchies- better get some late night churros with hot chocolate sauce (story on this to come at another time).

3) Botellon- The botellon is perhaps the most ingenious idea ever. I previously spoke about the bars and clubs of Spain. Well- they kick ass. BUT, it can be very expensive. Without drink specials, places can charge up to 8 euro ($12) for one mixed drink (wtf?!?). Many clubs have cover charges that include a free drink or two, but still rough on the wallet. If only there were a cheap and fun way to get drunk before going to a club…hmmm…

Ok- for all you American college kids out there- picture this: A pregame. On steroids. With ninja swords and a jetpack. That’s how awesome the Spanish pregame is. A botellon means outdoor drinking- and in Spain there’s no open container violations. Young people buy bottles of liquor, chasers, and ice, and meet in parks, plazas, random streets, or anywhere they feel like starting a party. Oh, and there’s usually at least 1,000 people at a small botellon. In 2004, there was a botellon in Sevilla that had over 70,000 people. I have yet to witness anything nearly that large, but there’s been botellones where they block off long roads, park cars everywhere blasting music from the stereos, and fill it with people for a spontaneous block party- (probably around 2000 people if I had to guess). After such botellones, people disperse and hit the clubs. There are workers hired by the city who’s sole job it is to clean up after the botellones the morning after.

2) Mi Residencia Abay- My living situation couldn’t be any better. I live in the neighborhood of Callao. I’m smackdab in the middle of everything. Tons of great stores, restaurants, tapas bars, and clubs all within walking distance. I’ve already talked about the building, but what makes the “resi” special is the people. 7 guys 7 girls. 9 Spaniards 5 Americans. My roommate Manuel is my closest friend here in Spain. He’s fluent in Spanish (and English) which certainly helps my communication in the resi.

The Spaniards are all lovely people: everyone is super friendly and the nights that I follow them around are always the best times. That’s what I love about my Spaniards- they include the Americans when they go out. They know where the best/biggest botellones are, they get me on exclusive club vip lists, and are the best teachers of Spanish culture I could ask for. I was really upset that I missed what has been called “the best night in Spain thus far”: Chiki Parque. Fernando, one of the kids I live with, had a friend who’s dad owned Chiki Parque (an enormous Chucky Cheese.DZ Discovery Zone). Everyone in the resi (besides me, I was with my family), went to the Chiki Parque around midnight, botelloned and had a huge party in the huge playplen building, including a huge ball pit, a 2 story slide, and foosball. I was so jealous. Everyone got back around 8:30 am, wasted, wearing new scrapes and bruises, raving about how awesome it was.

The kids in my Resi come from all over Spain, ranging everywhere from the Canary Islands to Ibiza, Andalucia to Pais Vasco. They speak fast and it’s tough to follow, but I learn the most from these people, especially their slang.

I’m still undecided on whether or not I will put up full character descriptions of everyone I live with- I love them all though I’m not sure if that would be taken the wrong way. Everyone I live with is my friend- something I was pleasantly surprised to discover.

1) Parque del Retiro- Aside from my resi, and the classroom, Retiro Park is where I spend the most of my time. It is the most beautifully designed public space I’ve ever visited. Every tree, shrub, and garden has been planned for optimal aesthetics- the park maintenance staff does a superb job. Retiro is closed at night- which keeps the graffiti artists and botellones out of the park- keeping it clean.

The park is enormous- over a square mile. Every time I go to Retiro (which is quite often- at least 3 times a week) I discover a new area filled with something incredible. This is where I go to work out. I have a special little nook of the park that no one comes near where I jump rope. Running through the park always rewards me with encountering a new location. Statues, fountains, Futbol fields, streams, lakes, ect. I must say that thus far, my favorite spot of the park is the Crystal Palace. I need to just let the pictures do the talking here. Check em out.

Sorry for the delays

I've spent too much time having fun in Spain, rather than writing about it.

API

My bus from Malaga arrived in Madrid two hours before my API orientation began. Just enough time to check into the hotel, put down my bags, relax, shower, and change.

There are seven of us in the Langauge and Culture program at Univdersidad Complutense de Madrid. 6 girls, and Julian. Oy.

The orientation is everything I’ve already read and been told. A fun two hours. It was worth it, however, for the free dinner afterwards, at Gino’s Italian restaurant (slightly classier than the Olive Garden). The group swapped personal tidbits and life stories over bowls of Italian/Spanish pasta.

Back at the hotel, I couldn’t sleep, so I spent a good portion of the night watching Spanish cable television. My comprehension is improving, but some TV shows still talk too fast for me to understand. For that reason, sports (futbol) work best.

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More meetings in the morning. Yawn. Snooze.

I was excited to meet the other kids in the Complutense program for the tour of the royal palace, considering they would be who I will live with.

I spoke with Manuel, my new roomate, for most of the walk to the royal palace. He is the only other American guy in API Complutense, making it very important we get along. So far we’ve gotten along great.

El Palacio Real is gorgeous, and a must see of Madrid. We began in the enormous stone courtyard overlooks the western countryside of the city. This was the only part of the royal palace we were permitted to take pictures.

Once inside on the guided tour, we were warned that pictures were not strictly prohibited. I scoffed at the signs and started taking covert pictures with the flash off.

What I didn’t know about my camera was that each time I turned my camera off the settings reset. When I went to take a picture of the ceiling on the grand staircase, I flashed the entire room- security guards at the bottom of the steps started moving. Shit.

Very conveniently, at this moment, an asian tourist right behind me decided to whip out his camera and take a picture of the wall. The security guard approached this tourist, and escorted him out of the room. Perhaps the guards went through this man’s camera and deleted all the pictures of the palace, perhaps they kicked his face in. I don’t know, I never saw that man again. I learned my lesson though; the guards don’t fuck around.

Our tour guide was unbelievably strict tiny old lady that was eerily similar to the old lady Mrs. Hogenson from the Incredibles. If any other tourist would get close to our group, she would stop midsentence, and glare at them until they would leave. Aparently her information wasn’t for outsiders.

The building itself is actually quite “new” for Spanish standards (mid 18th century), and lacks the beautiful Moorish architecture of other Spanish palaces such as El Alcazar or El Alhambra. I needn’t discuss how beautiful and ornate the royal palace was, because it was THE royal palace. Just go an see it.

I followed the other group, Manuel, Catalina, Lisa, and Danielle back to my new residencia, rather than go to my hotel. They gave me the low-down on how things work at the residencia.

Residencia Abay was only a short walk from the palace, located on Calle Chinchilla (chinchilla street) in Callao. Callao is the best possible neighborhood I could have been put in. I am 2-3 blocks from Puerta del Sol (where I previous stayed, in the center of Madrid and the Iberian peninsula), and about a quarter block off of Gran Via, one of the largest and busiest streets in the city. Everyone else is jealous of my location.

The residencia houses 14 students: 9 Spaniards, 4 Californians, 1 Julian. It was instantly clear that my Spanish was the weakest in the residencia. At least in this situation I will be forced to learn.

The residencia itself is quite lovely. It’s very clean, quiet, and aesthetically pleasing. All wood floors, extremely high ceilings (I love high ceilings), three bathrooms, big plasma TV in the dining room (el comedor).

I met Dolly (pronounced doy-jee), the “house mom” that does the cooking. She’s lovely. Speaking of which, my meals are prepared for me. My room is cleaned for me. My laundry is done for me. I’m going to live like a king.

Awesome.

Later that night I went out for sangria with some of the girls in my program, Azza, Gaby, Ally, and Morgan. We hit 2 or 3 bars for sangria, then called it an early night. I slept at the hotel for one last night.

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Next morning: more boring orientation stuff.

Afterwards, we went to the Prado museam for a tour. The Prado is the 2nd most famous art museum in Europe, after the Louvre. The group hung around outside while I spent roughly 20 minutes on the phone helping a very lost and panicky Ally find the correct Prado museum (apparently there are multiple). I’m such a nice guy.

The Prado was absolutely stunning, and I could really appreciate some of the art, but to honest, I found our tour incredibly boring. The tour guide didn’t realize our group’s level of Spanish comprehension, and spoke to us like children, which I wouldn’t have had a problem with, if it didn’t slow down the tour so much. It seemed as though we would stand in front of the same painting for 20 minutes before moving, and my legs got restless. The tour guide taught us how to recognize the works of El Greco, which I found interesting and useful, but after that, I was soooo done with the guided tour. I intentionally got lost and separated from the group so I could wander the Prado by myself.

After the museam, I moved my bags into the residencia. I was finally settled in to my home in Spain.